TY  - BOOK
AU  - Holthuijsen, H. Len
TI  - Waves In Occeeanis And Coastal Waters
SN  - 9780521129954
PY  - 2009///
PB  - Cambridge, U.K.
N1  - 1 - Introduction 
2 - Observation techniques 
3 - Description of ocean waves 
4 - Statistics 
5 - Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 
6 - Waves in oceanic waters 
7 - Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 
8 - Waves in coastal waters 
9 - The SWAN wave model 
Appendix A - Random variables 
Appendix B - Linear wave theory 
Appendix C - Spectral analysis 
Appendix D - Tides and currents 
Appendix E - Shallow-water equations
N2  - Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters
ER  -